The new harbour at Kilmore Quay as the tall ships arrive June 2001, with the Saltee Islands in the background

Few islands on the coast of Ireland can boast of as long and varied a history as the Saltees. It would be well if the visitor realised that the Saltees are something more than a pleasant spot on which to spend a summer afternoon, or a suitable venue for a boating or picnic party. It would be well to recall that here dwelt hermits, pirates, fugitives; the Saltees are more than mere barren humps of land rising out of the blue waters of Ballyteigue Bay - they are, in a sense, a living symbol of the indestructible past, a link with the colourful centuries gone by.

Primitive Stone Age man first settled on the Saltees before history was recorded and carved out an existence amid the Pre-Cambrian rock, the oldest of its kind in Europe. As long ago as 3,500 to 2,000 B.C. there were people on the islands.

There is a recently-identified promontory fort, the remains of an ancient grave, an Ogham stone (now in a local museum) and traces of what appear to be ringforts.

Then there were the early Christian hermits, the Vikings, the Normans and the medieval monks. Small communities of farmers and fishermen made a humble living there. In the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries the Saltees were in the path of one of the world's most important sea trading routes - between Britain and the American continent. Pirates from Spain, France, North Africa and America plundered the busy merchant ships within sight of the islands, where there were pirate bases for smugglers, with cargoes of brandy and wine, for the cellars of South Wexford, being transhipped in their lee. And in the days of sail the waters around the islands became known as " the graveyard of a thousand ships" so dangerous was the area to shipping.

Then in 1798 an island cave became a brief hiding place for two leaders of the Rebellion. John Henry Colclough and his wife, of Tintern, Mr. Harvey took refuge in a cave in the Saltee Islands after Wexford's surrender- Soldiers traced them down there. To save Mrs. Colclough (who had bravely stood by her husband throughout his battles), both men surrendered and, with the others, were executed on June 28.

The small island consisted of 100 acres with 35 acres suitable for tillage and 20 for grazing. The rest was barren rock suitable only for sea-birds. On the northern side of the island stood one dwelling house, well built of stone with a slate roof. There was additional housing for horses, cows, pigs and fowl. Intensive tillage produced such crops as barley, wheat, oats, beans and potatoes. Other crops were sown to feed the animals, such as mangolds and turnips. The mild climate on the island kept it frost free, so there was no danger to early crops, especially potatoes.

While the loading and unloading of crops on the island or shore did not create problems, animals did. The larger animals had to be thrown cowboy style to have their legs tied together. Many hands were needed for cattle and horses to be put on board with the aid of planks. Sheep could be lifted on board but were more troublesome than other animals. Farming ended around 1919 but was resumed on a small scale some years ago.

The big island was extensively farmed by the Parle family in the nineteenth century. There was a dwelling house and cowhouse, both slated, with a thatched barn, stable and carhouse. 30 acres were under tillage, 30 under grass and meadowing, with huge numbers of rabbits. Farming ceased in 1900 until 1939, when early potatoes and barley were an important crops. Other crops included oats, beans, onions, etc. Farming ended in 1943.

The next owner was the "Prince of the Saltees."

Baptised Michael O'Neill, he was born at Ballingly, Ballymitty in 1911. As a young man he worked on his father's farm before heading off to England to make some money. Returning some years later , he enrolled in Mount Mellary College to enhance his education. He founded the British Chemical Mills in Belfast for the manufacture of veterinary and agricultural products. Next he opened the Tolka agricultural Mills in Dublin for the production of cattle feed substitute, before moving into the production of a roof preservative. In partnership with his brother John he set up a number of companies producing animal medicines and was also associated with the Bayer chemical company in England.

He purchased a number of farms in south county Wexford. Towards the end of 1943 he bought the Great Saltee with a view to transforming it into a major tourist resort. Because of later controversies he was unable to pursue his dreams. In 1956. he had himself crowned 'Prince of the Saltee Island', having obtained the registration for his title from the British Office of Heraldry, though this was later denied by the Office. The Irish government refused to recognise the title on the registration of the birth of his son, but after the threat of a High Court action, the Registrar -General acceded and registered his son as a prince.

Prince Michael had a throne, flag-staff and obelisk shipped to the island. There were a number of controversies - refusing to pay rates on the Big Island to Wexford County Council and `trying to populate the island with cats to destroy some of the millions of rabbits on the island. He farmed there for a period in the 1950s. He had his own plane and helicopter and often brought friends to the island. He died in January 1998.

Over 200 species of birds - some rare - visit or breed on the two islands, unaffected now by any resident human population.

This picture of Parle's farm on the Great Saltee was drawn by a young deaf boy about 100 years ago.

TOP